Referencing Historical Practices and Emergent Technologies in the Future Development of Sustainable Textiles: A Case Study Exploring “Ardil”, a UK-Based Regenerated Protein Fibre
Abstract
:1. Introduction
- Dissolution of the protein in a suitable solvent. This is typically an aqueous solution of a diluted alkali.
- Denaturing and unfolding the protein molecules into a linear state. In the case of casein this is achieved via the introduction of NaOH which, when given enough time, breaks the proteins’ secondary structure. This enables extrusion through small holes within a spinneret.
- Extrusion of this protein “dope” through a spinneret directly into a coagulation bath in a wet spinning process. This involves controlled precipitation of the protein in the coagulation bath, forming continuous filaments. The coagulation bath usually consists of an anti-solvent—typically an aqueous solution of diluted acid—and other chemical additives. Salt is added to increase the osmotic pressure within the bath, causing fibre shrinkage to aid with protein molecule orientation and to prevent fibres from sticking together. A crosslinking agent (most commonly formaldehyde) is added to improve the tensile properties of the fibre. The filaments can then undergo further mechanical and chemical processes to increase their functional properties, including chemical hardening in a separate bath. The most common chemicals used historically for RPFs are sulphuric acid, sodium sulphate, magnesium sulphate, and formaldehyde.
- Drawing filaments. A mechanical process of gradually stretching the fibre to aid in protein molecule alignment and increase fibre crystallinity, leading to an increase in tensile strength.
2. Materials and Methods
- Development of the historical technology;
- Marketing and public reception of Ardil;
- Social, political, and economic factors.
3. Results
3.1. Historical Background
3.1.1. RPF Background
3.1.2. Imperial Chemical Industries Background
3.2. Development of the Historical Technology
3.2.1. Invention of the Process
3.2.2. The Role of ICI
3.2.3. The Chemical Process
3.2.4. Blends with Ardil
3.2.5. Ardil Factory
3.3. Marketing and Public Reception of Ardil
3.3.1. General Public
3.3.2. The British Industries Fair
3.3.3. Designers Working with Ardil
3.4. Political and Economic Factors
3.4.1. The Second World War
3.4.2. The Wool Price
3.4.3. Supply of Peanuts
3.4.4. East Africa Groundnut Scheme
3.4.5. The Rise of Petrochemicals
4. Discussion
5. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Property | “Ardil” Fibre | Wool |
---|---|---|
Specific gravity | 1.31 | 1.31 |
Tensile strength (kg./sq.mm.) | 8–10 | 12–20 |
Elongation at break (%) | 40–60 | 30 |
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Auerbach George, H.; Stenton, M.; Kapsali, V.; Blackburn, R.S.; Houghton, J.A. Referencing Historical Practices and Emergent Technologies in the Future Development of Sustainable Textiles: A Case Study Exploring “Ardil”, a UK-Based Regenerated Protein Fibre. Sustainability 2022, 14, 8414. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14148414
Auerbach George H, Stenton M, Kapsali V, Blackburn RS, Houghton JA. Referencing Historical Practices and Emergent Technologies in the Future Development of Sustainable Textiles: A Case Study Exploring “Ardil”, a UK-Based Regenerated Protein Fibre. Sustainability. 2022; 14(14):8414. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14148414
Chicago/Turabian StyleAuerbach George, Hannah, Marie Stenton, Veronika Kapsali, Richard S. Blackburn, and Joseph A. Houghton. 2022. "Referencing Historical Practices and Emergent Technologies in the Future Development of Sustainable Textiles: A Case Study Exploring “Ardil”, a UK-Based Regenerated Protein Fibre" Sustainability 14, no. 14: 8414. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14148414